My butler snaps open a white linen cloth and smooths it over the table. He lays out a silver coffee pot, cream pitcher, a selection of sweeteners, salt and pepper shakers and two sets of flatware tucked within folded cloth napkins.

Next come the covered plates of chilled fruit, omelets accompanied by crisp bacon and a stack of blueberry and pecan pancakes. A basket with an English muffin hidden beneath a napkin is placed beside a saucer of tiny jars of honey and jam and a dish of sweet butter. The butler pours two cups of steamy-hot coffee and, with a promise to return later to clear away the table, he takes his leave.

Breakfast is served in my suite aboard Crystal Serenity.

Although built in 2002, Crystal Serenity positively glows with enhancements and updates throughout, calming color palettes that are earthly and subdued, graceful and dramatic sculptures and splashes of color and whimsy thanks to beautiful paintings throughout the ship—my favorites being those hanging in the vicinity of the 2,000-book library.

Acquired by the Abercrombie and Kent Travel Group in 2022, Crystal Serenity had a $150 million facelift in 2023 that fully reimagined and refreshed her public spaces and luxuriously stretched cabins into suites with separate living and sleeping quarters and huge bathrooms featuring lavish multi-spray showers.

And Crystal Serenity lives up to her name, with an atmosphere of refined elegance where tranquility prevails even when the live music strikes up. Part of this can be attributed to the ship’s 740-guest capacity—for which many onboard expressed appreciation. The ship is as impeccable as its white glove service, and let’s face it, the personal butler service in all room categories elevates the cruise experience by several notches.

THE CUISINE

Besides laying the table for breakfast, Crystal butlers restock the “adult” beverages (red wine in my case) and come knocking faithfully about 5:30 every afternoon with a lovely tray of canapés, a delectable array of nibbles like smoked salmon on crackers, hummus and veggies and a sweet treat. And guests are free to call their butler at any time—even in the wees—to order a little something from the in-room dining menu.

The service, the crew and the ambience aboard Crystal Serenity are a cut above—and you feel it.

And the food? Outstanding. From room service to afternoon tea to the Waterside—the main dining room—to the ship’s specialty restaurants, the culinary offerings are exceptional. Guests are treated to menus prepared by a Michelin-star chef and have the opportunity to indulge in exquisite gastronomy (not just once but twice without an upcharge, depending on the length of cruise) at one of the world’s most coveted dining tables: that of legendary master chef and celebrity host Nobuyuki “Nobu” Matsuhisa.

Aboard Crystal ships, that table is Umi Uma. The restaurant’s setting combines contemporary and classic Japanese design elements with a relaxed resort ambience. And the menu? It headlines the so-called “Cod-Father’s” Nobu-style black cod marinated in Saikyo miso, illustrating why this chef’s fusion of Japanese flavors with a Peruvian influence and inspired by his time working in South America has built a culinary empire.

“Nobu’s restaurants are globally unique, very expensive and very difficult to get reservations at,” said cruise director Rick Spath, who has been with Serenity for over 20 years. “You come here, and you have the opportunity to dine there once or twice—you can even go more, but you have to pay the fee—it’s beyond a fantastic experience to be part of that.”

Like Umi Uma, Osteria D’Ovidio, a fine Italian restaurant, requires reservations with an upcharge for visits beyond the number of complimentary ones. In all, there are nine distinct complimentary venues to choose from aboard Crystal ships, with a 10th soon to be added. Beefbar will combine “beef, reef and leaf” in culinary temptations that reflect the international street-food scene.

THE ENTERTAINMENT

Entertainment aboard Serenity is nonstop—but not in a frenetic screaming-host-and-crowded-corridors kind of way. There are lectures on a variety of topics—world affairs, destinations, astronomy; musicians of every stripe, Broadway-style performers, comedians; dancing in the evening; late-night karaoke.

There are instructional classes with Computer University@Sea and more causally with an instructor teaching topics like how to elevate photography and videography skills with a cellphone. A golf instructor is onboard to help golfers improve their strokes. Trivia is played on sea days—and features great prizes, like vouchers to the spa). For junior cruisers, Wave’s and Fantasia have spaces designed just for them.

Live music is performed day and evening: piano, violins, big band; up-tempo music for dancing and light music for enjoying before and after dinner. A favorite spot of mine was Avenue Saloon, the cruise line’s signature piano bar. The space is dark, intimate and moody, perfect for easy listening while sipping a pre-dinner cocktail or late-evening nightcap.

Depending on the length of the cruise and/or the number of sea days, entertainment can include production spot shows, cabaret performances and other themed events. Additionally, on select nights, Serenity’s Stardust Club transforms into a supper club for catching an evening show and dining and dancing. Later this year, the first Casino de Monte-Carlo at sea will arrive on board Serenity and Symphony.

“It’s all about balance” said Spath. “We have guests coming to us from all around the world and all walks of life. We know we have to provide a variety of entertainment and enrichment every single cruise so that there is something for everybody.”

That something also includes the ship’s Seahorse Pool and hot tubs; Wimbledon Court with paddle tennis and pickle ball; the Fitness Center, Weight Room and Aerobics Studio; a theater for watching recently released movies; and the Aurora Spa for relaxing with a massage, facial or other therapy. And for the daily walks I like, hitting the track on Deck 7, which encircles the entire ship, made it easy to rack up several miles while smelling the fresh sea air and looking out over endless stretches of ocean.

“People have come on this ship, especially with a longer voyage, with a bag or a box of books to read and at the end of the cruise — and this is one of the best compliments I can ever receive — they’ll say, ‘Rick, I didn’t even have a chance to open a book,’” said Spath.

I can relate. I didn’t crack my own book open—although I did visit and spend time in the ship’s library, which features some of the coziest come-hither nooks for relaxing, reading and daydreaming of any library at sea I’ve tucked away in.

THE DESTINATIONS

Crystal offers voyages to Europe and the Mediterranean, the Baltic and Northern Europe, Africa and Indian Ocean, the Americas and the Caribbean, North America and Canada, the South Pacific, South America and Asia.

For many guests aboard Crystal, the ships ARE the destinations.

“I know people who book the world cruise every single winter and they have no clue where the ship is going,” said Spath. “As long as they know where it starts and where it finishes and what the dates are—it’s the ship for them.”

That’s because these ships aren’t just about taking voyagers on a vacation; they are a place to wallow in your vacation, to sink into all those shipboard luxuries—the butler bringing you white linen table service and stocking your favorite bottle of wine; wrapping yourself in a soft body towel after a steamy rain shower; getting a table overlooking the sea at an exclusive restaurant.

From the champagne and gourmet chocolates that welcome guests aboard Serenity to the final breakfast preceding disembarkation (I took the server’s recommendation of Eggs Benedict and savored every bite), guests are in the competent hands of a crew, staff and ship that are a cut above.

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For information about Crystal, its ships and itineraries, as well as the luxury experience this cruise line offers, visit www.crystalcruises.com.

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